Bench and Bison Workshop

A woodworker's field companion.

Start Here
New to woodworking? Begin here, what it is, your first tools, where to go next
Shop Safety
Dust, fire, spontaneous combustion, PPE, know this before cutting anything
Sharpening
The skill everything else depends on: stones, angles, the back, testing for sharp
Reference
Terms
Kerf, grain, mortise, tearout and more
Tools
Hand and power tools, use, ease, technique
Wood Species
Janka hardness, food safety, workability, region
Sawmill Terms
S4S, rough-sawn, quartersawn, board foot
Joinery
Mortise and tenon, dovetails, dados, pocket screws
Joint Decision Guide
Not sure what joint to use? Answer a few questions
Hardware & Fasteners
Screws, hinges, drawer slides, pulls, knockdown
Learn
Milling & Process
Rough lumber to dimensioned stock, the full sequence
Layout & Measurement
Marking, squaring, centerlines, metric vs imperial
Dovetail Walkthrough
Complete step-by-step hand-cut dovetail guide
Starter Projects
Sequenced builds, each one teaches the next
Green Woodworking
Riving, spoon carving, chairmaking, steam bending
Finishing & Gluing
Wood Finishing
Oil, wax, shellac, polyurethane, choosing and applying
Finishing Schedules
Step-by-step systems, cutting board, furniture, outdoor, painted
Gluing
PVA, hide glue, epoxy, technique and troubleshooting
Common Mistakes
Tearout, blotch, cupped panels, symptoms and fixes
Finish Troubleshooting
Fish-eye, blush, drips, peeling, what went wrong
Shop
Maintenance & Care
Rust prevention, plane tuning, saw care
Drying & Storage
Air drying, MC targets, drying defects
Clamps & Workholding
Types, cabinet assembly, cauls
Workbench Types
Roubo, Nicholson, split-top, designs and features
Shop Setup
Layout, lighting, tool organization
Wood Defects
Knots, checks, figure, warp, reaction wood
Calculators
Board Foot Calculator
Lumber volume and estimated material cost
Wood Movement Calculator
Predict seasonal expansion and contraction

Woodworking Terms

Tap a filter tag on any term to see that category

Tools

Hand and power tools, technique and terms

Wood Species

Hardness, region, application, food safety

Sawmill Terms

Vocabulary for buying lumber and understanding how boards are cut

Joinery

Types of joints, their strengths, and when to use each

Clamps & Workholding

Types of clamps and how to use them

Workbench Types

Designs, features, and how to choose

Board Foot Calculator

Thickness (in) × Width (in) × Length (ft) ÷ 12

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Board Feet

Shop Safety

Dust, fire, PPE, chemicals, first aid

Dust Collection & Respiratory Safety
Fine dust, HEPA, respirators, N95
Fire & Spontaneous Combustion
Rag disposal, oil finishes, extinguishers
PPE, Personal Protective Equipment
Eye, ear, lung, hand protection by task
Finishing Chemicals & Solvents
Storage, ventilation, disposal
Power Tool Safety
Kickback, blade guards, table saw habits
First Aid in the Shop
Cuts, eye injuries, what to keep stocked
Ergonomics & Fatigue
Bench height, grip, posture

Drying & Storage

Air drying, kiln drying, and proper lumber storage

Air Drying
Time, stacking, stickering, site selection
Kiln Drying
Methods, MC targets
Moisture Content
What it means, testing, target ranges
Lumber Storage
Stickers, indoor vs outdoor
Drying Defects
Cup, bow, twist, crook, checks

Shop Setup

Layout, workholding, lighting, organization

Layout and Flow
Traffic patterns, bench placement
Workholding Basics
Benches, vises, clamps, holdfasts
Lighting
Raking light, task lighting
Tool Organization
Wall storage, French cleats, chests

Sharpening

Stones, angles, technique, testing for sharp

Sharpening Stones
Waterstones, oilstones, diamond, strops
Chisels and Plane Irons
Bevel angle, back flattening, progressions
Saw Sharpening
Filing, fleam, rake, set, jointing
Carving Tools
Gouges, hook knives, slips
Testing for Sharp
Paper test, arm hair, reflection

Maintenance & Care

Keeping tools and wood in working condition

Rust Prevention and Removal
Camellia oil, wax, evaporust
Plane Maintenance
Tuning, chip breaker, sole flattening
Saw Care
Cleaning, tooth protection, handles
Handles and Wood Parts
Linseed, shellac, cracking, tightening
Lumber Care in Shop
Sealing end grain, conditioning, mold

Start Here

A grounded introduction to woodworking

Woodworking is the craft of shaping wood into useful or beautiful objects. It spans an enormous range, from rough construction framing to hand-cut dovetails, from green wood chairmaking to machine-assisted cabinet production. All of it shares the same foundation: understanding how wood behaves and knowing how to move tools through it cleanly.

You do not need much to start. A solid workbench, a handful of core tools, and an understanding of grain and moisture will take you further than a shop full of machines you do not yet know how to use. The tools exist to serve the work. Start with what the work actually requires.

What distinguishes good woodworking: Not the tools, not even the technique, it is the attention. Woodworking rewards slowing down. A fit that requires ten minutes of careful paring lasts forever. A joint rushed through in two minutes will show it. The craft teaches patience whether you want it to or not.
Hand tools are quiet, portable, require minimal shop space, and give you direct physical feedback from the wood. They reward sharpening and skill. A well-tuned hand plane on a cooperative board is one of the most satisfying experiences in the craft. The barrier to entry is low: a bench, a few planes and chisels, a couple of saws, and a sharpening setup will handle most furniture work.

Power tools remove material faster and reduce physical fatigue on repetitive dimensioning work. A thickness planer does in two passes what hand planing takes twenty minutes to accomplish. Most working woodworkers use both, hand tools for fitting, refining, and joinery; machines for initial dimensioning and production repetition.

Neither is the right answer exclusively. The hand-tool-only approach teaches you the most about wood behavior and is the quietest, most accessible path. A hybrid shop gets dimensioning done quickly and reserves hand tools for the work that benefits most from them. Choose based on your space, budget, noise constraints, and what kind of experience you want at the bench.

A practical hand-tool starting kit: No. 4 bench plane, No. 5 jack plane, crosscut saw, rip saw, a set of bench chisels (1/4" to 1"), marking gauge, combination square, marking knife, and a mallet. This covers the majority of furniture work.
Grain direction is the single most important concept for beginners to internalize. Nearly every surface problem, tearout, rough cuts, chipped edges, comes from working against the grain without knowing it.

What grain is: Wood is made of long fibers running along the length of the tree. The direction those fibers run relative to the surface you are working is the grain direction. Cutting with the grain means the tool is sliding under and lifting the fibers cleanly. Cutting against the grain means the tool is driving the fibers into the wood and ripping them out, that is tearout.

How to read it: Look at the edge of the board. The grain lines angle in a direction. Plane or chisel in the direction those lines slope downward into the surface, like petting an animal in the direction its fur lies flat. If the surface gets rough, you are going the wrong direction. Flip the board or flip your approach.

End grain: End grain (the cut end of the board) is exposed fiber cross-sections. It cuts differently than face or edge grain, it requires sharper tools, more controlled cuts, and different finishing technique. End grain absorbs finish faster and usually requires a sealer coat first.

Grain and glue: Long grain to long grain glue joints are extremely strong, often stronger than the wood itself. End grain to long grain joints are weak because the end grain absorbs glue and starves the joint. Face grain to face grain (panels, veneers) depends on surface prep.
A dull tool is the most common source of frustration in woodworking. It makes every operation harder, more dangerous, and produces worse results. This is not a matter of preference, a sharp edge cuts; a dull edge tears, compresses, and slides.

What sharp means: A truly sharp chisel or plane iron shaves hair from your forearm with no pressure. It slices clean printer paper silently. The edge catches on your thumbnail rather than skating across it. If your tool does not do these things, it is not sharp enough for fine work.

Sharpening is a skill, not a chore. Learning to sharpen well, flattening the back, establishing the bevel, raising and removing the burr, finishing on a strop, takes an hour to learn and a few sessions to make automatic. Once automatic, touching up an edge takes two minutes and transforms the next hour of work.

The back matters as much as the bevel. New tools almost never have a flat back. Before worrying about the bevel angle, flatten the back on a coarse stone until it is mirror-flat at the tip. This is a one-time operation per tool, but it must be done before the tool will perform.

See the Sharpening section for stones, technique, and testing.
Wood is not a stable, inert material. It absorbs and releases moisture with seasonal humidity changes, and it expands and contracts across the grain as it does. This movement is predictable, significant, and must be accounted for in every piece of furniture you build. Ignoring it is the most common cause of cracked panels and split boards.

The numbers: A 12-inch wide flatsawn cherry board might move 1/4 inch or more between a dry winter and a humid summer in a typical interior. Quartersawn stock moves roughly half as much in width. Movement along the length of a board is negligible, wood moves across the grain, not with it.

The rule: Never glue or fasten wide panels (tabletops, door panels, case sides) rigidly across their width. They must be free to move. A tabletop attached with screws through a fixed apron will split the top or blow the apron joint apart. Use figure-8 fasteners, wooden buttons, or slot-screwed cleats that allow movement.

Frame and panel construction exists entirely because of wood movement. The panel floats in a groove, never glued in, and expands and contracts freely while the frame remains stable.

Acclimate your lumber. Bring wood into your shop and let it sit stickered for two to four weeks before cutting it into final parts. It will move as it reaches equilibrium with your shop humidity. Cut it before it acclimates and your dimensions will change after the parts are made.
Milling is the process of taking rough-sawn lumber and producing flat, square, dimensioned parts. Every step depends on the one before it. Done in the wrong order, the result is parts that look dimensioned but are not actually square or flat, and joinery cut from those parts will not fit.

The six steps, in order:

1. Flatten the face side. One flat reference face. All other dimensions come from here. Mark it with a face-side mark (traditionally a looping pencil line).

2. Joint the face edge. One straight edge, square to the face side. Mark it. Now you have two reference surfaces at 90 degrees to each other.

3. Thickness to dimension. The second face parallel to the first, at your target thickness.

4. Rip to width. The second edge parallel to the face edge, at your target width.

5. Crosscut to rough length. Remove defects and cut closer to final length with some margin.

6. Crosscut to final length. Final dimension, square across the grain.

Why the order matters: If you thickness before flattening, the planer makes both faces parallel, but parallel to a twisted surface, not to a flat one. If you rip before jointing an edge, you are referencing from an unknown surface. The sequence is not arbitrary; it is the logic of building from a datum outward.

See Milling & Process for full detail on each step.
You cannot cut accurately what you cannot hold still. Workholding is not a secondary concern, it is the foundation that makes everything else possible. A good bench with solid workholding is worth more than any individual tool in the shop.

The bench itself: Mass matters. A heavy bench does not move. A light bench walks across the floor under planing pressure and telegraphs vibration into every cut. The traditional benchmark is a thick hardwood top with a leg vise on the left and some form of tail vise or bench dogs on the right.

The face vise holds work vertically for sawing, planing edges, and cutting joinery. It should open wide enough to hold a panel and clamp with enough force that the work does not shift under a mallet blow.

The holdfast is the oldest and most effective bench accessory for hand-tool work. A steel shaft dropped into a dog hole and struck with a mallet, it locks instantly and releases with a single tap from behind. Faster and more positive than a clamp for many operations.

Bench hooks and shooting boards are the simplest workholding jigs and should be the first things you build. A bench hook holds work for crosscutting. A shooting board holds work for planing end grain square and true. Both are built from scrap in an afternoon and used for years.

The principle: The work should be held so that cutting force drives it into the bench or the stop, not away from it. Set up the hold before picking up the tool, repositioning while a tool is in hand is where accidents happen.
The best first project is the one that teaches the most while producing something you will actually use. Small and functional beats ambitious and abandoned.

Bench hook (1–2 hours): The first thing most hand-tool woodworkers build, because you need one to build anything else. Teaches sawing to a line, basic layout, and grain direction. See Starter Projects for full instructions.

Wooden mallet (2–4 hours): You use the result in every subsequent session. Teaches layout, boring a mortise, fitting a tapered handle, and the basics of surface finishing. The mortise teaches more about chiseling than almost any other single exercise.

Cutting board (3–6 hours): A face glue-up, flattening a panel, and food-safe finishing. Three skills that appear in almost every furniture project.

Small box (4–8 hours): Where the earlier skills converge. Requires precise layout, clean sawing, careful paring, and a fitted lid. The dovetail version is the traditional benchmark of hand-tool skill.

The principle: Each project should teach a skill the next project depends on. Build in sequence, not randomly. The bench hook teaches the sawing you need for the mallet. The mallet teaches the mortise work you need for the box. The path compounds.

Where to go from here

Tools
Key hand and power tools, use and technique
Woodworking Terms
Build your vocabulary
Shop Safety
Know the hazards before you start cutting
Sharpening
The foundational skill everything depends on
Wood Species
Understand what you're working with before you buy
Sawmill Terms
Know what S4S and board foot mean

App Guide

How to get the most from this companion

What this app is

The Bench & Bison Workshop Companion is a hand-tool focused woodworking reference built for practical use in the shop. Every section is readable offline. No account required. No ads.

Navigating

Use the hamburger menu (top right) to reach any section directly. The back arrow (top left) returns to wherever you came from. The home button (title text) always returns to the landing page. The landing page organizes everything into labeled groups, scroll it to orient yourself.

Search

Tap the magnifying glass to search across terms, tools, wood species, sawmill terms, finishing entries, gluing topics, and more. Search checks names, descriptions, and body content, so searching spontaneous combustion finds the fire safety entry, and searching blotch finds both the finishing section and common mistakes.

Cross-links

Green tags are clickable links, tap them to go directly to the relevant term, tool, or section. They appear in tool detail pages (associated terms), term detail pages (related terms and category filters), project pages (tools and skills), finishing pages (disposal links to safety), and throughout body text. Grey tags are informational labels only, no link destination exists yet for those entries.

Workshop Notes

Tap the notebook icon (top right, next to search) to open the notes panel. Tap + New Entry to create a timestamped journal entry, write measurements, observations, project notes, or anything else. Entries are saved automatically as you type and sorted newest-first. Tap any entry to reopen and edit it. Use Export All Notes to copy everything to your clipboard for safekeeping. Notes are stored on this device only, they do not sync across devices.

Joint Decision Guide

Found under Reference on the landing page. Answers the question what joint should I use here? by asking about the stress direction, visibility, tools available, and application. Takes about 30 seconds and links directly to the full joinery entry for the recommended joint.

Dovetail Walkthrough

A sequential step-by-step guide designed to be read in the shop. Each step has Previous / Next navigation so you can follow along without losing your place. Start at the Overview and work through, the process builds on itself.

Save to your phone

Visit the app in Safari (iOS) or Chrome (Android), tap Share, and choose Add to Home Screen. It will appear as an icon and open full-screen like a native app. All content is available offline after the first visit.

Suggested starting points

New to woodworking: Start Here → Shop Safety → Tools → Milling & Process → Layout & Measurement → Sharpening → Starter Projects.

Buying lumber: Sawmill Terms → Board Foot Calculator → Wood Species.

Starting a project: Milling & Process → Layout & Measurement → Joint Decision Guide → Joinery.

Finishing a piece: Wood Finishing → Finish Troubleshooting → Finishing Chemicals (Shop Safety).

About

Bench & Bison Workshop

Built Slowly. Made to Last.

Bench & Bison Workshop is a hand-tool focused woodworking practice based in Revloc, Pennsylvania.

Why this app exists

Woodworking knowledge is scattered across books, YouTube channels, forums, and shop floors. This companion is an attempt to put the most useful reference material in one place, organized, searchable, and usable in the shop without an internet connection. It is built for the kind of woodworker who works slowly and makes things to last.

The approach

Hand tools first, but not exclusively. The milling sequence works whether you own a jointer or a No. 7 plane. The finishing section covers film finishes alongside oil and wax. The joint entries cover both hand-cut and machine-cut approaches. The goal is practical knowledge, not ideology.

Content philosophy

Every entry is written to be useful at the bench, not to impress. Short descriptions, clear process, direct advice. Where there is genuine debate among woodworkers (oil finish vs film finish, hide glue vs PVA) the app presents the tradeoffs rather than a single answer.

Visit

benchandbison.com, shop work, projects, and the workshop journal.

@benchbison on Instagram

Disclaimer

This app provides general woodworking reference information for educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for professional training or advice. Content is provided as-is with no warranty of accuracy or completeness. Use of this app is at your own risk.

Support the work

If this companion has been useful in your shop, you can support the work at ko-fi.com/benchbison. Every contribution goes toward materials.

Version

Workshop Companion v1.3
Built with care. Content ongoing.
No data collected.

Changelog

v1.3, March 2026
  • Tools: added spokeshave, marking knife, sliding bevel, mallet, winding sticks, drawknife
  • Joinery: added detail pages for dowel joint, mitered spline, groove & panel, scarf & splice; all Joint Guide results now link to detail pages
  • Heartwood & Sapwood terms expanded with practical guidance; cross-references fixed
  • Beginner Guide rewritten: 5 thin items → 8 substantive sections including wood movement, milling sequence, and workholding
  • Voice/tone pass on all exotic wood entries (osage orange, purpleheart, lignum vitae, bloodwood, bubinga, zebrawood, Indian rosewood, ebony); CITES sourcing notes added where applicable
  • Sharpening promoted to hero card on home page
  • Finishing Schedules: added carved & turned objects, hardwax oil (Rubio/Osmo), and wax-only schedules
  • Home page: Joint Decision Guide moved from Calculators into Reference group alongside Joinery
  • Journal: archive system added (soft delete → archive, restore or permanently delete from archive view); all journal buttons wired; TDZ crash fixed
  • Bug fixes: two null-slot commas removed from T and TOOLS arrays; journal state declarations hoisted above init calls
v1.2, earlier 2026
  • Terms category navigation fixed (61 terms, 7 categories)
  • Wood Movement Calculator coverage completed
  • Journal system, disclaimer modal, service worker registration
  • 30 wood species, 23 tools, finishing schedules, joinery guide

Finishing Schedules

Complete step-by-step finish systems by application

Wood Movement Calculator

Predict how much solid wood will expand or contract seasonally

Typical moisture content ranges:
Kiln-dried lumber: 6–8% · Air-dried (shop): 8–12% · Interior (heated): 6–8% · Exterior / unheated: 12–16%

What this means: A 12" wide flatsawn white oak panel moving from 8% (kiln-dried) to 14% (unheated space) will expand approximately 0.45". Always account for wood movement in your joinery and panel design.

Hardware & Fasteners

Screws, hinges, drawer slides, pulls, and knockdown hardware

Green Woodworking

Working with fresh, unseasoned wood, riving, carving, chairmaking

Finish Troubleshooting

What went wrong, why, and how to fix it

Wood Defects Reference

Understanding knots, checks, figure, warp, and reaction wood

Dovetail Walkthrough

A complete step-by-step guide to cutting hand dovetails

Joint Decision Guide

Answer a few questions to find the right joint for your situation

Gluing

Glue types, joint prep, open time, clamping, and squeeze-out

Milling & Process

The sequence for turning rough lumber into flat, square, dimensioned stock

Layout & Measurement

Marking, squaring, finding centers, and why it matters before any cut

Wood Finishing

Choosing and applying the right finish for your work

Starter Projects

Sequenced builds, each one teaches skills the next depends on

Common Mistakes

Symptoms, causes, and fixes for the most frequent problems

External References

Trusted sources for deeper knowledge

Fine Woodworking

In-depth technique, joinery, finishing, and design

The Wood Database

Species data, Janka ratings, workability

Popular Woodworking

Projects, tool reviews, hand and power techniques

Paul Sellers

Hand-tool mastery, accessible tutorials

Lost Art Press

Historic texts, workbench design, joinery

r/handtools

Hand tool community, vintage tool ID

Bench & Bison Workshop Companion

A woodworking reference

This app provides general woodworking reference information for educational purposes. It is not a substitute for professional advice, training, or hands-on instruction.

By using this app you acknowledge:

  • Woodworking involves sharp tools, machinery, and materials that can cause serious injury. Always follow safe practices.
  • Content is provided as-is with no warranty of accuracy, completeness, or fitness for any particular purpose.
  • Bench & Bison Workshop is not liable for injury, property damage, or loss resulting from use of this information.

No data is collected. Notes are stored locally on your device only.

This notice appears once. See About for more information.